Surfing is a water sport where an individual, known as a surfer, uses a board to ride the face of a moving wave, usually towards the shore. The sport, originating in ancient Peru and Polynesia, is believed to have started with people using reed boats and paipo boards for fishing and recreational purposes. Modern surfing, where individuals stand on surfboards, began in Hawaii and spread globally. By the early 1900s, surfers like Duke Kahanamoku introduced surfing to the United States and Australia, helping it grow into the popular sport it is today.
Surfing requires specific types of waves, which are often found along coastlines, reefs, and points where wave breaks occur. Wind, wave speed, and seabed topography greatly influence wave shape and size, making locations like Hawaii's Pipeline, California's Mavericks, and Australia’s Gold Coast world-famous. Surfers often rely on artificial wave pools and reefs when natural waves aren’t available. Surf forecasts, using technology from agencies like NOAA, help surfers find ideal conditions.
Different forms of surfing include stand-up paddleboarding, longboarding, and shortboarding, each requiring different boards and techniques. Stand-up paddleboarding involves using a paddle while riding, while shortboarding prioritises manoeuvrability for performing tricks. For safety, a leash attaches the surfer’s ankle to the board, preventing it from drifting away after a wipeout. Surfers also use wax for grip and wetsuits in colder water to stay warm.
Basic surfing skills involve paddling to catch the wave, positioning on the wave, and balancing while standing. Advanced surfers perform manoeuvres such as tube rides, where the surfer rides inside the breaking wave’s barrel, and aerials, where they launch off the wave’s crest. Common dangers in surfing include drowning, injuries from collision with the board or seabed, and encounters with marine life. Conditions like rip currents also pose a risk, and surfers often train to navigate these safely.
The International Surfing Association (ISA) is the main governing body of surfing worldwide, recognised by the International Olympic Committee, which included surfing in the 2020 Olympics. The World Surf League (WSL) organises annual championships. Surfers have built a unique culture around the sport, often embracing a lifestyle connected to nature and the sea. The influence of surfing has also spread to other sports, including skateboarding and snowboarding, where similar balancing techniques are applied.
Surfing includes several types, each requiring different techniques and boards suited to the style and wave conditions. Here’s a breakdown of the main types of surfing:
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